theprolineguy.com

I noticed a small wetness of fluid at the end of the ram into the cylinder at the engine. I have found a rebuild kit with tool available for around 100.00. Are there any secrets to replacing these seals?

The spanner wrench you get with the kit is the key. You can also take a pair of vise grips and wrap the jaws with electrical tape, clamp them on real tight so they don't slip and mar up the cylinder when you take the end caps off.

They give you an alignment tool, but I've never found it necessary to use. The old end cap simply unscrews and the new one slips over the rod and screws back in place. Just make sure it's TIGHT! An air ratchet or impact gun helps get the "horns" off a lot easier...and $100 is not a bad price. I found the kit for $97...3 bucks, big deal!

I do have impact gun, but what do you mean by "horns"?

Tom,
See the black things on each side of the cylinder that connect the tilt tube to the cylinder? Those are the horns...



Check for pitting/raised areas on the cylinder after you get the seals off. If there are any, take them down with some 220 then emory cloth, or the'll just tear the new seals when you put them on...

All users here are bang on... Always look for pitting on the cylinder shaft, if there is any it has to be removed, or, the cylinder replaced.

Also
when the system is properly maintained, you should get way more out of these (i have systems on boats that are 15 years old, flawless)

You want to be sure that the following is done;
* AFTER each trip. rinse down the cylinder with Fresh, Clean Water
* at least once a year. remove the support rod that passes through the engine steering tubes, clean the tube, then re-grease the support rod and reinstall (not doing this leads to stress on the seals, resulting in a leak
* make sure that the boat is grounded properly. any stray current may attack the cylinder resulting in a leak

Thanks and hope that this helps
Marc

Marc,
Now THAT is extremely good advice! Not only does it keep the system working the way it was designed, but it also helps greatly in familiarizing the owner with how his system is installed on his engine. A Seastar/Baystar system is actually very easy to install, and I think more owners would choose to tackle the job if they knew just how easy the install is...

Now if the problem of "frozen" cable ends in the tilt tubes could be solved...

Bob

bob - you are right about the cables, I am sure that Jim has some advise for that as well.

I love it when customers get to know the system. It makes me feel good, and, as they learn they teach others, then the others teach more...etc....(wait a minute, am I going to be teaching myself out of a job...?)

Cheers
M

seaStar Steering wrote:bob - you are right about the cables, I am sure that Jim has some advise for that as well.

I love it when customers get to know the system. It makes me feel good, and, as they learn they teach others, then the others teach more...etc....(wait a minute, am I going to be teaching myself out of a job...?)

Cheers
M

Sometimes Maggie says the same thing!

Have a great weekend, my friend!

Bob

Hi can you tell me what the difference between the HS5167 and the HS5157 seal kits are?

Normally, I'd let Marc handle this one, and he will tomorrow as I'm going to start a new topic for you and copy your post in it, but this is the difference. The 5157 comes with the spanner wrench for removing the end cap, the 5167 doesn't. All the other parts in the kits are the same.

Thanks
I could not find the part number on the seastar site for the 5167 so I thought I purchased the wrong one. My friend has the wrench so i wont need it to change my seals.
Thanks so much

Well, I love it when a plan comes together! BTW, if you're from Great Grady, we would love for you to share your insight...

Bob C

Bob is correct.

The HS5157 kit comes with a wrench to remove the older seals, and, install the newer ones.

The HS5167 comes with all of the above, minus the wrench

thanks
Marc