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Seabob4 Marine

Engines, Helm's, Electronics, Rigging...

Re: Seabob4 Marine

Postby Hugh » Sun Sep 26, 2010 2:23 pm

Bob...how are you creating base plates for the bilge pumps and bait/washdown pumps to anchor to? Starboard and fiberglass?

Just replaced a bilge pump in my 14' Sea Nymph...the captured float was clogging with debris. Ended up with a non float switch design...the pump cycles on for 2.5 seconds every 2.5 minutes. If the internal circuit detects current equivalent to pumping, it stays on until the current (torque) drops off, indicating empty bilges.

Danger is that if you don't turn off main disconnect when you exit the boat, the sucker will cycle every 2.5 minutes until next spring...or the AGM dies...whichever comes first :1947_eating_popcorn
Fish Whisperer :239_fishing:
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Re: Seabob4 Marine

Postby Bob C » Sun Sep 26, 2010 8:51 pm

Hugh,
Get rid of that "cycling" pump...a reliable float will turn the switch on when it needs to. The Rule-Matics have a test "pad" that you put your finger on for 5 seconds, turns the pump on, the shuts down after 15 seconds or so, doesn't come back on until the water pressure of the water in the bilge mimics your finger...
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Re: Seabob4 Marine

Postby Bruce03 » Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:25 pm

C - Lark wrote:OK, status report: Back to the boat yesterday, with two friends. Worked on boat all day. Pulled the "suspect" starter, and prepared to install the freshly rebuilt unit that came with the boat. One friend says "Hey, the way things have been going, maybe you should have that rebuilt starter tested before putting it in the starboard engine". My reaction: "I can't believe that would be necessary, but "why not"? So, off to the battery shop with two starters and all 3 batteries (Remember, I had those checked a month ago, and all were good). Result: The rebuilt starter was bad, the one I just removed from the engine was good, and two batteries had dead cells, and the third one was marginal. So, why would the marginal battery start the port engine, but not the starboard engine? Battery shop owner suggested adding another ground wire from the starter negative lug to one of the starter mounting bolts. He made one up. I also had him make up a new heavier negative battery cable, using #2 welding cable. Back to the boat with three new batteries, new negative cables and the old starter (left the rebuilt one @ battery shop for another rebuild). Installed all --- Both engines start great !!! :-o :605_thumbs_up: I strongly suspect that the ground lug on the starter wasn't making good contact with the negative cable. Maybe there is some hope after all.... Went for a 3 hour fishing trip on the Columbia. One fish -- a 30 pound plus Chinook salmon. :239_fishing: The boat has been "baptized" ! Going fishing again Saturday. Oh, did I mention that the bilge pump quit? It has juice, and tries to run, but bearing is bad. Will install a new one Saturday... The livewell and baitwell pumps ?? Those will have to wait... :2261_high: :2261_high: :504_shrugging:


Bob, have similar problem but I have two 7.4 Mercruisers with very little access room. Was working on trim tabs (in mid aft) and replaced the wires. Then, starboard engine started just fine but port engine would not crank at all. Could hear the click. Checking wires at starter will be very hard but I plan to check wires at batteries. Could I have affected some wire when working on trim tabs? Ideas? :504_shrugging:
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